Chase in poker is the act of calling bets to complete a drawing hand without proper pot odds, essentially gambling against the math in hopes of hitting your outs. It’s the poker equivalent of buying lottery tickets with your rent money, sometimes it works out, but the math says you’ll go broke in the long run.
Chasing is one of the most expensive mistakes in poker, particularly common among recreational players who overvalue the potential of making their hand. The term typically carries a negative connotation because it implies calling when the pot odds don’t justify the decision, driven more by hope than mathematics. Professional players distinguish between “chasing” (bad) and “drawing” (can be good), the difference lies entirely in whether you’re getting the right price.
The psychology behind chasing is powerful. When you flop a flush draw, those nine outs feel like destiny calling. The problem is that a 35% chance of completing your flush by the river means you’ll miss 65% of the time. Chasing becomes especially costly in no-limit games where opponents can size their bets to deny you proper odds, turning every hopeful call into a long-term money burner.
How Does Chase Work?
Example 1: The Classic Bad Chase
You hold A♥K♥ in the cutoff in a $2/$5 game. A tight player opens to $20 from early position, you call.
The flop comes Q♥7♥2♣. Your opponent bets $50 into the $47 pot. You have a flush draw (9 outs) giving you roughly 35% equity with two cards to come. You need to call $50 to win $97, getting pot odds of approximately 2:1 (33% equity needed). This is close, but then your opponent announces “I’m betting the turn and river too.” You call anyway.
The turn brings the 4♠. Your opponent bets $150 into the $147 pot. Now you need to call $150 to win $297, getting 2:1 again but with only one card to come (18% equity). You’re getting crushed by the math but call anyway because “I’ve already put so much in.” The river bricks and you lose $220 chasing a draw that was never profitable after the flop.
Example 2: When Drawing Looks Like Chasing (But Isn’t)
You hold 7♣6♣ on the button. A loose player opens to $15, you call.
The flop comes 8♥5♠2♣. Your opponent bets $20 into the $33 pot. You have an open-ended straight draw (8 outs, ~32% equity with two cards to come). You need to call $20 to win $53, getting 2.65:1 pot odds (requiring 27% equity). But here’s the key: this opponent has shown he’ll check-fold turns when called on the flop about 40% of the time, and you have position. The immediate pot odds plus the implied odds of winning more when you hit (or taking it away when you miss) make this a profitable call. You’re drawing with odds, not chasing.
Sizing Considerations
Opponents who understand chase dynamics will size their bets to make drawing incorrect:
- Flop: Betting 66-100% pot prices out most draws
- Turn: Betting 75%+ pot makes one-card draws unprofitable
- Smart players use larger sizes on wet boards specifically to punish chasers
Position Considerations
Chasing out of position is significantly worse because:
- You can’t realize your equity as effectively when you hit
- You can’t bluff as credibly when you miss
- You face more streets of betting without initiative
- In position, you can sometimes turn a marginal chase into a profitable float by taking the pot away later
Strategy Deep Dive
Optimal Frequencies
| Situation | Correct Calling Frequency | Typical Chaser Frequency |
|---|---|---|
| Flush draw vs 50% pot bet | Call 70-80% | Call 95-100% |
| Flush draw vs 100% pot bet | Call 20-30% | Call 80-90% |
| Gutshot vs 66% pot bet | Call 0-10% | Call 40-60% |
| OESD vs 33% pot bet | Call 90-100% | Call 100% |
| Weak draw vs 75%+ pot bet | Fold 100% | Call 30-50% |
Board Texture Impact
Chasing becomes more or less expensive based on board texture:
Dry Boards (K♠7♣2♦)
- ✓ DO: Fold most draws, opponents bet larger and more frequently
- ✗ DON’T: Chase backdoor draws or weak gutshots
Wet Boards (J♥T♠9♣)
- ✓ DO: Consider implied odds, these boards often check through
- ✗ DON’T: Assume you have the only draw, reverse implied odds are real
Paired Boards (8♣8♦K♥)
- ✓ DO: Give up weak draws, full houses crush everything
- ✗ DON’T: Chase assuming opponents are always bluffing
Ranges and Hand Selection
Not all draws are created equal when it comes to chase decisions:
- Premium draws to continue with: Nut flush draws, combo draws (12+ outs), OESDs to the nuts
- Marginal draws (fold vs large bets): Non-nut flush draws, gutshots, weak OESDs
- Never chase with: Backdoor draws, dominated draws, or draws on paired boards
Pro Tip: The best players think in terms of “equity realization” not just raw equity. A flush draw might have 35% equity, but if you’re out of position against an aggressive player, you might only realize 25% of that equity. Factor in how often you’ll actually win the pot, not just how often you’ll make your hand.
When Should You Chase?
Technically, you should never “chase”, you should draw when profitable. But there are situations where what looks like chasing is actually correct:
1. When implied odds justify it: Against a deep-stacked opponent who will pay off your made hand, calling with incorrect immediate odds can be profitable.
2. In multiway pots: With 3+ players, you’re getting better immediate odds and better implied odds. A flush draw that’s a fold heads-up might be a snap-call 4-ways.
3. When you have fold equity: In position with an aggressive image, you can call with the plan to take the pot away on later streets regardless of whether you hit.
4. In tournament situations near the bubble: ICM pressure might make opponents check down, giving you free cards to realize equity.
When Should You NOT Chase?
1. Against pot-sized bets or larger: When facing a pot-sized bet on the flop with a flush draw, you need the pot to triple by the river to break even. This rarely happens against competent players.
2. With non-nut draws in multiway pots: Chasing a king-high flush draw when an ace-high flush draw is likely out there is burning money. The reverse implied odds are brutal.
3. On paired boards: Your flush or straight is often no good even when it comes in. The presence of full house possibilities should kill your enthusiasm for chasing.
4. Against tight players showing strength: When a nit check-raises the flop, they’re not folding the turn or river. Your implied odds are zero, making any chase unprofitable.
Common Mistakes with Chase
Mistake 1: “Pot Committed” Mentality. Thinking you must call because you’ve already invested money. Every decision is independent, previous bets are gone. If the current bet gives you bad odds, fold regardless of earlier investments.
Mistake 2: Overvaluing Suited Cards Preflop. Playing any two suited cards because “I might flop a flush draw” is how chasers are born. You flop a flush draw only 11% of the time, and then you usually won’t have odds to continue.
Mistake 3: Ignoring Reverse Implied Odds. Chasing with the second-best draw is expensive. Your 8-high flush draw looks great until you lose your stack to the ace-high flush.
Don’t Confuse With…
Chase vs Float: Chasing is calling to hit a draw without odds. Floating is calling with the intention to bluff later, regardless of whether you improve. Floats require position and fold equity; chases are just hoping to hit.
Chase vs Proper Drawing: If you’re getting correct pot odds or implied odds, you’re drawing, not chasing. The math determines the distinction, not the outcome.
Hear It at the Table
Key Takeaway
Chasing is the gap between hope and mathematics in poker. Every time you call without proper odds, you’re making a long-term losing play, regardless of whether you hit this particular draw. The difference between profitable players and losing players often comes down to discipline: knowing when that flush draw is worth pursuing and when it’s just an expensive lottery ticket.
